Sunday, May 04, 2008

Red Onion Marmalade

I’ve been in the kitchen these past few months, making loquat jam from the tree across the street, experimenting with Romanesco from the Hollywood Farmer’s Market, and trying different flavored waters (dried lemongrass and fresh lemon verbena are my favorites so far). But every time I sit down to write, it has to be for work—To Vietnam With Love is coming out in June, and To Myanmar With Love isn’t far behind. So I haven’t had a chance to write any new recipes down. But tonight I made something so incredible that I just had to record it.

Ever since buying a jar of red onion marmalade at the Borough Market in London last September, I have been craving the stuff. When I went back in December for more, the stall was closed for a week, as it turns out it always in between Christmas and New Year. I couldn’t remember the name of the company, so I couldn’t order any. Finally, I decided to make my own. This version was cobbled from recipes I found online, and although it’s not the Borough Market marmalade, it’s really good. It’s always recommended with pork, but that seems too autumnal. I advise heading to your local cheese shop. When I told one of the experts at the Silverlake Cheese Shop I had a red onion marmalade and asked for a suggestion, I ended up with a perfect pairing. (Of course, I’ve forgotten the name of the cheese—it’s been a hectic year!)

Red Onion Marmalade

Ingredients:

- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 6 cups thinly sliced red onions (about 4-5 medium onions)
- 1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper or red pepper flakes ground in a mortar and pestle
- 1 cup (packed) brown sugar
- 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
- 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
- 1/2 cup dry Sherry
- 1 1/2 tablespoons grated peeled fresh ginger

Directions:

1. Heat oil in large, heavy saute pan over medium heat. Add onions and dried red pepper. Cover and cook until onions are tender, stirring occasionally, 10-15 minutes.

2. Add brown sugar, vinegar, balsamic vinegar, Sherry, and ginger. Cook on medium uncovered until onions are very tender and mixture is thick, stirring frequently, 30-40 minutes. The result should be caramelized.

This marmalade is terrific served cold, at room temperature, or heated. Makes two 8-ounce jars and then some.

PS: Loquat Jam ...

Loquats are in season right now in L.A., and there are three laden trees across from my apartment. No one eats the fruit, and it just falls on the ground and rots, which is such a shame. Loquats are fabulous, the closest I’ve found to a mangosteen, which is my favorite fruit in the whole world. They’re a pain to peel and de-seed (the seeds, apparently, are poisonous), but it was worth it for making jam. Out of curiosity, I used the exact same recipe that I used for my pear jam, excluding the jasmine tea. And it worked. Even though I know different amounts of sugar are usually required for different jams, I use this recipe as a template, and so far, it hasn’t failed me.