Wednesday, March 03, 2010

Rolled Fillets of Breast of Chicken with Pork and Rosemary Filling

I love trying new recipes, but doing this always has two opposing effects on me. 1) I get excited, hoping the dish might turn out to be terrific. 2) I’m terrified I’ll blow it. This recipe leaned heavily on the latter because I was making it to impress, and because one part of the instructions didn’t seem quite right to me.

After the pork was cooked and rolled in the raw chicken fillets, I was supposed to cook the rolls briefly in a skillet. To be specific: for only one minute! Granted, I am notorious for overcooking chicken, but “one minute altogether” planted fears of food poisoning in my head. A mutual decision during the cooking process turned that one minute into ten (explained below).

I had prepared the rolls a few hours ahead of time (preparing them was easy), and I think this gave the flavors time to steep before cooking in the skillet. Fresh pork from the butcher and fresh rosemary also made a difference. I added a side dish of fingerling potatoes roasted with olive oil and thyme, and the meal was almost perfect. A fresh green salad would have rounded it out nicely.


Rolled Fillets of Breast of Chicken with Pork and Rosemary Filling
adapted from the Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking
by Marcella Hazan

Ingredients:

- 2 garlic cloves
- 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
- 1/2 lb. ground pork
- Salt
- Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
- 2 tsp. fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped
- 2 whole boneless chicken breasts
- 2 Tbsp. butter
- Kitchen string
- 1/2 cup dry white wine

Directions:

1) Lightly mash the garlic with a heavy knife handle, just hard enough to split the skin, which you will remove and discard. Put the garlic in a skillet together with the oil, turn on the heat to medium, and cook the garlic until it has become colored a pale gold. Add the ground pork, salt, pepper, and the rosemary leaves. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring and crumbling the meat with a fork. Discard the garlic and, using a slotted spoon or spatula, transfer the meat to a plate.

2) Lay the chicken fillets flat on a work surface and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Spread the pork filling over the fillets, and roll up each fillet tightly. Tie each roll as if wrapping ribbon around gift (see photo).


The rolls can be prepared up to this point several hours in advance.

3) Spoon off most of the fat from the pan in which you cooked the pork. (If you made the chicken rolls some time in advance, degrease the pan at that time, and reserve the juices in the pan for when you are ready to resume cooking.) Add the butter, turn the heat on to medium high, and when the butter foam begins to subside, slip in the chicken rolls. Turn down the heat to medium, cover the pan, and cook the chicken for about ten minutes, checking regularly to make sure the rolls don’t overcook and turning regularly to make sure they brown on all sides. Transfer to a warm serving platter, using a slotted spoon or spatula.

4) Add the wine to the skillet, and while it simmers briskly for about half a minute, use a wooden spoon to scrape loose cooking residues from the bottom and sides of the pan. Pour the cooking juices over the chicken rolls and serve at once.


Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Beef and Onions Braised in Beer

As each New Year rolls around, it’s time for one thing for the Fay ladies in L.A.: our annual Southern Blues potluck party. But after three years of grits and bourbon (and the food/drink hangover that goes with so much hard alcohol and fried food), my cousin Jeanne sent out a new theme: recipes from Julia Child. Instead of collard greens, green beans in butter. Instead of pulled pork, beef bourguignon.

As usual, it was a feast. More than thirty guests (including my brother-in-law dressed as Julia Child and my sister Julie dressed as Paul), and at least twenty dishes, from scalloped potatoes to an amazing chocolate mousse from my cousin Jody. As for my contribution, I chose Julia’s Beef and Onions Braised in Beer. This was my pick for a couple reasons. It looked unique, and more importantly, it looked easy to make. I confess that although I’ve had my Julia Child cookbookfor a couple years, this is the first dish I’ve made from it. I’m too intimidated by it—plus I’m still easing my way through Elizabeth David’s French Provincial Cooking.

My main comment on this recipe: Don’t scrimp on the beef. The recipe calls for lean beef from the chuck roast or rump, but my butcher (oh how I love saying that!) at Marconda’s Meats at the Third & Fairfax Farmers Market read through the recipe and recommended chuck filet boneless short ribs instead. This meat was gorgeous as I was slicing it, and when the dish was done … sigh. So tender. I didn’t want to take it to the party. I wanted to keep it for myself, to devour on the spot and eat the leftovers in sandwiches the rest of the week. Subtle, hearty, and simple, this is the dish for your next winter dinner party—just add some roasted baby potatoes and maybe a green salad and you’re set.

*** I don’t know how to format the recipe to match the style Julia uses in her book, so I will wing it and hope the staggering of ingredients and directions here works.

Beef and Onions Braised in Beer (Carbonnades a la Flamande)
adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, by Julia Child

From Julia: Beer is typical for the Belgian braise, and gives a quite different character to beef than the red wine of the bourguignon. A bit of brown sugar masks the beer’s slightly bitter quality, and a little vinegar at the end gives character.

For 6 people

Step One:

- 3-lb. piece of chuck filet boneless short ribs
- 2 to 3 Tbsp good cooking oil
- A heavy skillet

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Cut the beef into slices about 2 by 4 inches across and 1/2 inch thick. Dry on paper towels. Put a 1/16-inch layer of fat or oil in the skillet and heat until almost smoking. Brown the beef slices quickly, a few at a time, and set them aside.

Step Two:

- 1 1/2 lbs. or 6 cups sliced onions
- Salt and pepper
- 4 cloves mashed garlic

Reduce heat to moderate. Stir the onions into the fat in the skillet, adding more fat if necessary, and brown the onions lightly for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper, and stir in the garlic.

Step Three:

- a 9- to 10- inch fireproof casserole about 3 1/2 inches deep (my Le Creuset 3-quart oval French Oven was perfect for this)
- Salt and pepper

Arrange half the browned beef in the casserole and season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread half the onions over the beef. Repeat with the rest of the beef and onions.

Step Four:

- 1 cup strong beef bouillon
- 2 to 3 cups light Pilsner beer
- 2 Tbsp brown sugar
- 1 large herb bouquet: parsley sprigs, 1 bay leaf, and thyme tied in cheesecloth

Heat the bouillon in the browning skillet, scraping up coagulated cooking juices. Pour it over the meat. Mix the beer and brown sugar and add so the meat is barely covered. Bury the herb bouquet among the meat slices. Bring casserole to the simmer on top of the stove. Then cover the casserole and place in lower third of preheated oven. Regulate heat so liquid remains at a very slow simmer for 2 1/2 hours at the end of which time the meat should be fork-tender.

Step Five:

- 1 1/2 Tbsp cornstarch
- 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar

Blend the cornstarch and vinegar. Remove the herb bouquet. Drain the cooking liquid out of the casserole into a saucepan and skim off fat. Beat the starch/vinegar mixture into the cooking liquid and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes. You should have about 2 cups of sauce. Pour the sauce back over the meat.

*** The recipe may be prepared in advance to this point. If you prepare it in advance, when you are ready to serve, cover the casserole and simmer slowly for 4 to 5 minutes until the meat is thoroughly heated through.

Monday, December 21, 2009

Twitter and Facebook

The time has come … to join the modern world, otherwise known as Twitter and Facebook fan pages. The reason: my new food book, Communion: A Culinary Journey Through Vietnam, is due out in April, and my To Asia With Love guidebook series just added the fourth volume, Japan, to the already available To Asia With Love, To Vietnam With Love, and To Myanmar With Love. I will only be posting information about the books, ThingsAsian.com, ThingsAsian Press, Vietnamese food, and Asian travel … I promise, no personal blah blah blah. I just want to get the word out about these books and a part of the world that means so much to me.

Communion has been my most special project so far—a culinary love song to Vietnam. You can read a little about it on the home page of my website, as well as find one of the recipes and some photos from the book. As for the guidebook series, it is just as much for armchair travelers as it is for those of you visiting the countries the volumes cover. Their stories are unique (a Wild West dude ranch in Japan) and personal (playing air guitar with monks in Myanmar), and at the same time practical—while not comprehensive (you’ll still need a Lonely Planet or Frommer’s), the books include thoughtful tips on planning your trip.

So … follow me, become a fan, and even better, order one of the books:

Click here to follow me on Twitter
Click here to become a fan of Communion on Facebook
Click here to become a fan of To Asia With Love on Facebook

You can pre-order Communion at Amazon or one of my favorite independent bookstores:

Powells.com
Elliott Bay Book Company
Skylight Books
Traveler’s Bookcase

Click here for information about To Vietnam With Love

Click here for information about To Myanmar With Love

Click here for information about To Japan With Love

Thanks!!